Balancing a Ceviche
Balancing a ceviche
I’ve eaten my way through a good amount of ceviche. We have a version of it in the Philippines, known as kinilaw, meaning to “eat raw,” which uses vinegar and a citrus hybrid called calamansi. Together with aromatics like garlic and ginger, it’s used to cure seafood partially before serving. The same technique is used in Peruvian ceviche but omits vinegar from the cure. Knowing the history of Spain’s colonization in the Philippines, one could easily come to the conclusion that the origin of kinilaw comes from Peruvian’s ceviche brought by Spanish explorers. Yet, archeological evidence points to kinilaw being originally Filipino, back to 1200 AD, pre-dating the Peruvian version. Imagine that!
I do admit, my top ceviche experiences include a view of the ocean’s horizon, set to a background of waves crashing the shore. And those moments have been far and few in between. I’ve been blessed with friends who love to share their culture and love through cooking. One friend in particular, grew up in LA with a huge Mexican family. Her dinner parties occasionally incorporate Mexican food she loves, like ceviche.
One restaurant in Oakland serves a mean ceviche. Located in a busy intersection between a hospital and a main highway artery. The view from the restaurant is of the hustle and bustle of people getting to doctor appointments or driving to get to their next destination. The food is arguably Mexican, yet some purists could say that it’s not their cup of salsa.
You don’t really need this recipe.. For Ceviche
Ceviche, when done right, is balanced. Always start with fresh sashimi grade fish like tuna, chopped in bite sized pieces. Use acidity from citrus like lime to leave the fish soft and not too firm. Cut through this acidity with something fatty like avocado chopped or mashed like in guacamole and olive oil . Sharpen the dish with aromatics like pickled onions, garlic, jalapeño and coriander. And finally, round the dish out with tomatoes or cucumber for freshness. Typically served with a crunchy vessel like tostada or tortilla chips, you don’t really need a recipe for this dish.
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